"Some Tibetans believe our present world of war, disease, corrupt inequality, and environmental desecration, is the self-destructive age of Kali,
to be followed by a new age of peace, ethnic harmony, environmental balance, and human dignity, yet to come.
This future is Shambhala, sometimes called Shangri-la."
I came across the concept of The Age of Kali from one of my many respected writers during our travels in India. In many ways, I have wondered if this golden place existed. In many times, I have daydreamed about it, as a Utopian getaway from my worldly worries.
Zhongdian is a pretty town, one that had been recently revived through new money flowing in faster than the great rivers. It's a created bliss that silently advertised touristy menu prices (again) but lots of charm in the people and way of adapting (instead of living) to a new regime. To an outsider like me, it was too easy to come in and enjoy the many options of hiking and biking around the immensely stunning countryside, dig into a few local cuisine concepts, muse at the 7:00 nightly sharp main square "dance" that I could only align with an autonomous Big Brother hand to ensure "communal integration". Heck, on our way back through the new city outside the walls, we saw that many still live in poverty, a lot more still get up at 4:00 pm to join a frenzy of a stupidly choreographed dance - if corporate team spirit dictated that monthly productivity can be improved by boosting team morale through physical conformation, then I only can conclude that what's real and what's not has a long way to go in here.
There is no firm sense of happiness in these "Tibetan" monasteries. We didn't see the level of freedom and spirit that lit up in the very eyes of the monks that we came upon. Dharamsala may be a small "fugitive" town but it rang out loud with the continuous struggle of one nation, one distinct culture, carving one line after another in making sure that nobody forgets.
Yes, there were humongous scale of building and new construction of parks and amenities. Yes, there were forms of resemblance of Tibetan culture (if you count in badly spelt tourist shops selling Tibetan souvenirs). No debates, no learning. Coerced living and pipe-feeding of cultural acceptance. Look at yourself in the mirror and not recognise your face anymore.
Is a new, gold-leafed temple dome ever going to erase the hurt of denying your own heritage?
Many countries and states may debate about each of their own version of Shangri-la. But my heart fears that what I see today, is truly a mirage of a heavenly place that only reveals the many skeletons inside a closet tightly locked away.
Once the dust has settled again.
