The journey from Old Dali to yet another ancient town unfolded to a comfortable but heart-plunging experience as our bus veered closely to the edge of well-cut hills and the creaky engine roared a last sigh of exertion when we climbed, slowly as it seemed, one mile after another on the determined ascension of heights.
And we are here, in beautifully stunning Lijiang. A well-preserved relic marrying the Naxi / Dongba heritage with the past smears of the Ming and Qing empires. Oh yes, bright modern debauchery and touristic menu prices were flashed shamelessly as we, the puny mortals ushered into the awaiting gates with eyes wide open... pretty much nothing we can do as all those who had been ahead of us and mesmerised by this charming city would have discovered sooner if not later.
River lanes, the lanterns, the music and smells of food, darting dogs to the hundreds, the odd evening rising (of the living dead amongst many of these bars that should have been so) of the duf duf techno clubs that gave an odd touch of Ibiza to an otherwise historic city lined by many yak meat shops, old houses with one so many courtyards that lured you into imagining life as a Mandarin, throw in some curious ladies that wore (to the maximum hilt!) heels that defied the laws of physics as they strolled down the heavily cobbled streets with their big flowery hats, eye-crossing scarves, animal prints (think leopards, tigers, zebras, the whole safari...) and lots of local walkers adding the odd snort and spit, you pretty much got the whole brew here.
Famous for a few scholars, with a few gates built after their successes, you will thrill yourself into staying another day if the Tiger Leaping Gorge wasn't so close. In short, the old architecture alone will have you sufficiently enthralled if not more. The foot massage isn't all too bad either. But visit Old Lijiang you must. Then move on to the outer area to fulfill your lifelong ambition to do the tiger roar at the gorge if that remains as a wish bothering you like a pesky fly (and why not?) - heck, buy a wooden cross-bow if you want!
If being perfect is such a horribly forgiven sin for a city, then I would be Lijiang too given a chance. So don't delude yourself. Come here, stay a while and just soak it all in.
ps: The food here is unique. Watch the vinegar touch, but plenty to make your taste buds go "whoa!", even for a Delta I reckon (smile).
note-to-self: The weather is so ridiculously conducive for rice wine consumption (so not fair, I'm trying to be good... HARD!)
